Hair Colour Red Chart: A Complete Guide for Stylists and Clients
What the Letters and Numbers Mean on a Red Chart
Hair colour manufacturers label red shades with a combination of letters and numbers. Understanding this code helps stylists select the exact tone a client wants and communicate clearly with manufacturers.
- Letter prefix (R) – Indicates the colour family. “R” stands for red, while “R‑V” may denote a red‑violet blend.
- Number (e.g., 3, 6, 9) – Represents the depth on the standard 1‑10 scale, where 1 is black and 10 is platinum blonde. A red 3 is a deep, dark auburn; a red 6 is a medium copper.
- Secondary letter (e.g., “A”, “B”, “C”) – Shows the level of intensity or tone. “A” is the most vibrant, “B” is a softer shade, and “C” adds a cooler undertone.
- Modifiers (+, –) – A “+” adds warmth (more orange), while a “–” introduces cooler notes (more violet or ash).
Example: R6A+ translates to a medium‑depth, bright copper red with extra warmth.
How the Red Scale Fits Into the Colour Wheel
The colour wheel is the foundation of every hair colour chart. Red occupies the space between orange and violet and interacts with the three primary colours:
- Blue – Used as a filler or toner to neutralise orange‑based reds.
- Yellow – Boosts the warmth of a red, creating copper or ginger tones.
- Red – The base pigment that defines the hue.
When a stylist mixes a filler (often a blue‑based toner) with a red pigment, the result can shift from a bright copper to a deep burgundy. Understanding these relationships lets stylists customize shades without relying solely on pre‑mixed colours.
Using the Red Chart in Professional Settings
Milady Cosmetology School Theory, Chapter 16 (pages 614‑616, 14th edition), outlines best practices for haircolouring. Key points include:
- Perform a thorough strand test before applying any red formulation.
- Match the client’s natural undertone (warm, neutral, or cool) with the appropriate modifier on the chart.
- Document the exact code (
